What Travel Writers Say

Thompson Okanagan: let me count the ways!

When Elizabeth Barrett Browning penned, "How do I love thee?" she was referring to BC's Thompson Okanagan valley, neatly tucked between the Kootenay Rockies (east) and Cariboo mountains (west). Here, one may ski, shoot a round of golf, horseback ride, tour an historic site and sip fermented grape juice at an award-winning winery in a single day. Based upon outdoor recreation and palette, allow me, like Elizabeth, to enumerate the ways. For fans of David Letterman, here are the top ten picks, beginning with recreation:
     1. Mount Robson Provincial Park is a 20-minute drive northeast from Valemount via Highways 5 and 16. Mount Robson, designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site, claims the Canadian Rockies' highest peak, an advancing glacier and the legendary Berg Lake Trail. Here, views of iconic wilderness are incredibly awe-inspiring!
     2. Apex Mountain, a 35-minute drive west from Penticton with 56 km (35 miles) of trails constitutes a must-do for cross-country skiers. The Swedish National Team trained here! Inviting trails are located at the Nickel Plate Nordic Centre and groomed for all abilities, including children and beginners. Plus, there's a heated lodge with a waxing room and kitchen facilities. For alpine aficionados, Apex Mountain Resort with average annual snowfall of 6 m (19.6 ft), accumulates impressive powder over varied terrain and offers short lift lines to accessible slopes.
     The next two choices might be based solely upon their sonorous, compelling names, yet they have plenty to offer as well:
     3. Osoyoos inhabits the valley's southern tip, north of Washington State. It exists in the middle of Canada's only desert, a prime grape-growing region with more than 15 estate wineries within a short, 15-minute drive of the town centre. A popular summer holiday destination, it has shaped into the geographic solution for retirees who wish to escape harsher climates.
     4. Sicamous, at the junction of Highway 97A and the Trans Canada Highway, occupies a narrow channel between Mara and Shuswap Lakes and is known as the "Houseboat Capital of Canada." Ply the calm waters of both lakes with the Monashee Mountain Range for a beautiful background screen. There are golf courses, an expansive trail system and a lively arts scene. Favoured by ideal snowmobiling conditions, Sicamous garnered a snowmobile "Favourite Powder Riding" award.
     5. Wells Gray Provincial Park, a one-hour drive north from Clearwater, displays the impressive Helmcken Falls, gauged twice the height of Niagara Falls, plunging with a roar, 137 m (449 ft) into Helmcken Canyon. Sunset viewing is de rigeur, the whole canyon bathed in soft, orange light. The park promotes healthy hiking, exhibiting lakes, rivers and streams traversing several geo-climatic zones with an incredible variety of flora that favours black and grizzlybears, wolves, cougars, lynx, bobcats, wolverine, moose, deer, mountain goats and caribou as well as a myriad collection of birds (200 species), insects and freshwater fish. Bring a camera for the breathtaking views.

     Have you worked up an appetite? Here are my choices for the palette.
     6. The Okanagan Wine Route includes 60 wineries with unique ambience and tasting rooms, many clustered around the 111 km (69 mile)-long impressive Okanagan Lake, where, after some tastings, one might spot Ogopogo, Canada's version of the Loch Ness Monster. This tasty route snakes through the Okanagan Valley from Osoyoos in the south to Salmon Arm in the north.
     It was Father Charles Pandosy, an Oblate missionary who founded the region's first Roman Catholic mission in 1860; but the good priest also planted BC's first vineyard and apple orchard in Kelowna. Vineyards and orchards, including North America's first Aboriginal winery in Osoyoos, are scattered throughout the valley with wine and fruit festivals throughout the year. The region is blessed with near-perfect conditions for growing all types of fruit including apples, peaches, cherries and apricots.
     7. Vernon offers an array of appetizing local food products and here one may discover how to cook with lavender at a lavender farm; learn about honey production at a honey farm; buy artisan cheese from a "boutique dairy"; pick fruit at a u-pick orchard or, if worn out from hiking, purchase it from a roadside stand. Popular attractions include Gatzke's Farm Market, Kelowna Land & Orchard, Davison Orchards and Planet Bee Honey Farm.
     8. Remember those thick, dripping, sugary jam sandwiches that you devoured as a child? The Summerland Sweets Factory is a family-run company (since 1962) that produces jams, jellies and syrups found on most grocers' shelves. Tours of the factory are free and yes indeed, include delightful samples!
     With freshwater fishing at its finest, the Thompson Okanagan combines opportunities to satisfy both recreation and the palette It's home to more than 1,000 lakes, hundreds teeming with salmon, kokanee, steelhead, whitefish and trout, where anglers cast while viewing spectacular mountains, wetlands, waterfalls, old-growth cedar and hemlock. Say goodbye to stress!
     9. Freshwater fishing tours suit every budget and skill level while fishing charters and resorts offer the equipment and expertise needed to access any location however remote. With 200 nearby lakes full of steelhead, eastern brook and Kamloops trout, Dolly Varden, char and kokanee, Kamloops is touted as a prime freshwater fishing destination. 2,000 hours of sunlight per annum fuels underwater plant growth that supports large fish populations while alkaline waters promote fast growth and size.
     10. The Summerland Trout Hatchery, established in 1928 ranks as the oldest, continuously running BC trout hatchery, yearly stocking fish for 275 interior lakes. An interpretive centre features aquariums, educational models, videos and displays for the entire family.

Now that you are suitably famished, it's time to rate the best area restaurants, but here I rely on Okanagan Life Magazine with the results of their readers' survey:

North
1. The Brown Derby Cafe (Armstrong)
2. Hungry Jack's (Enderby)
3. Intermezzo Restaurant (Vernon)

Central
1. Bouchon's Bistro
2. Ric's Grill (Kamloops) & Ricardo's Mediterranean Kitchen (Lake Country)
3. Fresco Restaurant (Kelowna) & La Bussola (Kelowna)

South
1. Black Iron Grill & Steak House (Penticton)
2. Cozy Bay Seafood Cafe (Summerland)
3. Cantaloupe Annie's (Oliver)

Mike Keenan writes a weekly newspaper column for the St. Catharines Standard and has been published in the Globe & Mail, Buffalo Spree, Stitches, West of the City and Pulse Magazine. Mike is an award-winning poet and former President of the Canadian Authors Association, Niagara and Vice-President of the national body. He belongs to the North American Travel Journalist Association and the Travel Media Association of Canada. He is editor of the zines, What Travel Writers Say: www.whattravelwriterssay.com and Synapse Magazine: www.synapsemagazine.ca.

Photo Credits
Thompson Okanagan Tourism: Mount Robson (Alan Fortune), Nordic skier (Don Weixl),
Shuswap Lake (Alan Fortune), Helmcken Falls, Blue Mountain Vineyards (Don Weixel),
Erica's fruit stand (Don Weixl), Kamloops (Don Weixl), Snowmobiling, sunrise on Kamloops Lake (Alan Fortune), Berg Lake hikers (Alan Fortune), canoeing near Mt. Robson (Alan Fortune), sleigh near Salmon Arm (Don Weixl), toboggan near Salmon Arm (Don Weixl), mileage sign (Don Weixl), peppers (Don Weixl)

If you go
Thompson Okanagan Tourism: http://www.totabc.com
Apex Mountain Resort: http://www.apexresort.com/
Davison Orchards: http://www.davisonorchards.ca/
Gatzke's Farm Market: http://www.gatzkefarmmarkets.com/
Kamloops: http://www.kamloops.ca/index.shtml
Kelowna Land & Orchard: http://www.k-l-o.com/
Mount Robson Provincial Park: http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/mtrobson.html
Okanagan Life Magazine: http://www.okanaganlife.com/
The Okanagan Wine Route: http://www.grouptourplanner.com/Okanagan_Wine_Route.cfm
Osoyoos: http://www.osoyoos.ca/
Planet Bee Honey Farm: http://www.planetbee.com/
Salmon Arm: http://www.salmonarm.ca/siteengine/activepage.asp?bhcp=1
Sicamous: http://www.sicamouschamber.bc.ca/
The Summerland Trout Hatchery: http://www.gofishbc.com/slh.htm
Vernon: http://www.vernon.ca/
Wells Gray Provincial Park: http://www.wellsgray.ca/

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Going With The Flow

What do you get when you take three aging babes; one with a gimped shoulder, another a bum knee and a third who can't even swim, and plunk them on a whitewater raft heading down BC's Thompson River? The answer: healthy heart rates and gales of laughter.
     The forecast called for rain, and though our yellow slickers will shield us from the downpour, they won't guard against the other impacts Mother Nature has in store. "Hang on tight, Team," Simon yells over the thunderous pounding, "and let's take on this big boy!"
     Our Australian guide has more vigor than Crocodile Dundee, and we feel like his Olympic trainees when powering through the first mammoth wall of water known appropriately as 'The Shocker.' Gasps escape all twelve gaping mouths, and in spite of protective raingear, we're soon wetter than a dozen seagoing mariners. "It's time to shift, group," Simon calls out, after resurfacing to calmer swirls. With a mischievous grin, he circles the fuming vortex until we're once again at its electrifying start gate. And after shuffling forwards, we have two new brave hearts at the bow.
     This procession of rotating to the front dunk-tank seats occurs throughout the day and while we hug tight through white-tipped torrents and catapult waves like a pack of pole vaulters, we have a blast in more ways than one.
     Even when confronted face to face with the wettest and wildest, Simon's knowledge and competency instills total confidence. His certified expertise is a universal standard that Kumsheen Rafting Resort maintains, and that's why since 1973 they've enticed over two hundred thousand riders to hop aboard.
     The resort's home base is scenically terraced above the raging torrents just six kilometers (4 miles) east of Lytton. Ponderosa Pines and sun-bleached sage embrace the property's quaint cabin tents that overlook the limestone cliffs of White Canyon. Each one is decked out with a fanfare of memorabilia that depicts their signature titles, such as Gold Miner's Shanty, Pit House, and The Last Spike. On the previous night, the three of us had shared Chinese Cabin, and were intrigued with its heirloom treasures and historic tales.
     Apparently, back in 1860 when there was 'gold in them thar hills,' Chinese flocked to the area from as far away as San Francisco and Hong Kong. Many hung out along the muddy shores of the Fraser at the area known as Yale Bar, and although their second-rate citizenship prevented personal claim staking, the clean up of gold dust remnants deemed quite profitable.
     Within the comfy Kumsheen confines today, a wicker basket swaddles pottery remains that were uncovered at a nearby Chinese site; a strung up washboard unites with hallmark photos to depict the gold rush days and at night when the propane lantern emits a soft, translucent glow, the rumbling of nearby trains conjures visions of the bygone era.
     After our morning of getting up close and personal with 'Shocker' and other heart-thumping rapids such as the 'Tunnels of Love,' we pull into Gold Pan Provincial Park for a bite of lunch and a bit of river reprieve. Sun rays sear through the thin cloud cover in time to dry out waterlogged windbreakers, and after devouring savory salads, chicken fajitas, and scrumptious carrot cake, it's time to go with the flow again.
     "We're going to team up with another crew," Simon informs, as we all clamor back into our twenty-two foot inflatable. "It's always a good idea to partner while plying through the last half of this course." Although nobody argues, we share looks of trepidation when we review the rescue process with another raft of wave warriors. All the while, Simon wears an impish grin.
     At first, the ride is literally a breeze, and while drifting languidly through gentle swirls and easy-going currents, heat from the overhead sun provides a warm embrace. We brush up to steep-sided canyons where grand monoliths and weather-riveted hoodoos hover over us like watchful sentinels. We pass by snaking railcars that trace the footsteps of time as they cleave their way through granite-gouged tunnels. And we ogle the kaleidoscope of wildlife that includes soaring eagles, mule deer and nimble big horn sheep.

The vistas are jaw-dropping and spectators along the highway stop to take in the beauty. They seem intrigued to watch us roll with the relaxing river. Maybe it's because, from their position, they can see what's coming up. "OK team, it's time to get a grip," Simon hollers with excitement, "and with both hands!" From our level viewpoint beyond the river's gentle gyrating, we catch sight of a horizon that fumes with white water. The boiling froth spews over what appears to be building-size boulders, and it unleashes a tremendous fury on whatever comes into its wake. We're next to be engulfed.
While following the leader and playing "Simon says," we experience white-knuckle fever while riding roller-coaster rapids that buck like a mechanical bull. We're gobbled up by the Jaws of Death, bumped and rinsed with the Washboard's spin, and sucked into Green Hole's vortex. The Garburator churns, Witches Cauldron boils, and the Terminator - well, you can guess how it feels. Throughout the day while challenging over twenty five such thrillers, our adrenaline flows faster than the surge as pounding hearts compete with the surf. As well as a thorough drenching, it's an adventure that instills a new-found feeling of exhilaration. For three aging babes, what more could we ask for?

Jane Cassie and husband-photographer, Brent, have been featured in Northwest Travel Magazine, North American Inns, Resorts & B&B Magazine, Spa Life Magazine, and INNspire Magazine as well as Canadian and US newspapers. Jane is co-owner/editor of Travel Writers' Tales www.travelwriterstales.com.

Photo credits
Jane Cassie: Ripping up the river, Thompson Okanagan Tourism: Gold panner (Dan Lybarger), Whitewater rafting on the Thompson (Alan Fortune) Whitewater rafting on the Thompson (Tom Ryan), Mountain goat (Don Weixel).
Thompson Okanagan Tourism: snowmobiling, Heli-sking (Mike Wiegele), snow covered mountain (Alan Fortune), snowmobiling, windsurfing (Don Weixl), canoeing (Alan Fortune), white water (Duncan Myers).

If you go:
Kumsheen Raft Adventures Ltd: www.kumsheen.com

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Vintage Golf

This month I flew to the sunny Okanagan Valley in British Columbia to chip and sip. Aficionados of grape and fairway can find nirvana here. The Valley is B.C.'s largest and oldest wine appellation with 74 wineries and more on stream. Blessed with a sunny, warm and dry climate - Canada's only desert, an extension of the Sonoran stretches up from Mexico into the Okanagan. Good golfing weather is virtually guaranteed. There are 36 golf courses in the area and tour packages that link golf, hotel and wine tastings.
     Kelowna is the gateway to the Valley with an airport that offers more than 30 direct flights a day to key cities in Canada. My non-stop flight from Toronto was an easy morning trip. By noon I had checked into the Hotel Eldorado overlooking the glimmering blue waters of Okanagan Lake and I was seated for lunch. Its lakeside dining room and Boardwalk patio is a local hot spot that rocks from breakfast to closing. Next door is the larger Manteo Waterfront Hotel and Villas geared to families and large groups but with outdoor patios and fine dining. Both offer golf packages including tee time booking. Golf courses and wineries are minutes away.
     The most visually beautiful, well-established wineries are best for dining and wine. My first visit was to Mission Hill, perched atop the extinct volcano, Mount Boucherie, with great views of the lake, only 15 minutes from downtown Kelowna. Architecturally stunning with an outdoor dining terrace overlooking the vineyards, it's a "must see" place. The wines are consistently top notch. I've always liked their sauvignon blanc, but was surprised at how good their 2005 reserve pinot gris was with full bodied, peachy fruit complexities. Both the fresh-tasting, regular pinot noir and the fuller, riper reserve pinot noir are commendable.
     Quail's Gate is just down the road on south-facing volcanic and clay slopes. Its fairy-tale pretty indoor/outdoor dining room in the vineyards is aptly named Old Vines Patio. Dinner as the sun sets over the lake is a treat for eyes and palate. The winery is known for the quality of its pinot noirs which I highly recommend. The dry white chenin blanc 2005 with its expressive lemony character is a special wine to seek out for summer sipping. Owned by the Stewart family, Quail's Gate has produced wines since 1989 after a decade of planting and experimenting. Chairman/owner, Ben Stewart, told me, "We were a mixed farm when I got involved. Apples, cherries, pears...acres of them."
     The Okanagan remains a mixed farm country despite its multiplying vineyards. Thus, produce for the restaurants are naturally fresh and local. The same orchards surround some of the golf courses. The championship length Harvest Golf Club threads throughout 1,000 apple trees, five acres of vineyards and a smattering of peach, cherry, pear and other fruit trees. Trees on the course are sprayed to prevent fruiting but on the periphery, whatever's in season is free picking for golfers and the Club's chef, Paul Cecconi, who honed his knives at several Four Seasons Hotels. Paul takes advantage of local fare to create his Pacific Northwest cuisine. The wine list is replete with great BC wines.
     The Okanagan Golf Club offers two distinctive championship courses above the orchards in a dramatic mountainous setting. Amidst a forest, The Bear, crafted by Golden Bear Design, commands sweeping views, multi elevations and cleverly placed obstacles. The Quail, built with guidance from legendary Canadian designer, Les Furber, celebrates multi-tiered fairways meandering around a rock bluff, undulating greens and dramatic vistas of the Okanagan Valley. Clubhouse dining is above par with a good selection of local wines on the list.

Okanagan Wine Tours offers "chip and sip" tours of morning golf, followed by afternoon wine tours. I visited Cedar Creek, founded in 1986 by the Fitzpatrick family and consistently one of the best in the Valley (named winery of the year twice in the past five years at the Canadian Wine Awards). Their 2003 Platinum Reserve Merlot aged in French oak is delicious - lengthy and plump with fruit. The 2003 Estate Select Meritage, a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, has good structure, ripe fruit and cedar oak notes. The open-air Vineyard Terrace Restaurant wraps around Cedar Creek, a most popular luncheon choice.
My last night in the Valley, I dined at Summerhill Pyramid Winery which boasts a four-storey 8% replica of Egypt's Great Pyramid in order to age its wines to 'sacred' effect. After a game of golf, followed by a savoury pizza, chased with a fine Summerhill bubbly on the sunny veranda overlooking Lake Okanagan, it was hard not to feel blessed.

Swaine's Top Picks:
Cedar Creek Platinum Reserve Merlot 2003 $39.99
Quail's Gate Limited Release Chenin Blanc 2005 $18.99

Margaret Swaine is an award winning freelance journalist who has published over 2,000 articles covering travel, wine and food. Her wine columns and restaurant reviews have run for decades in magazines such as Chatelaine and Toronto Life. Her articles on golf, ski, spa and culinary tourism have appeared in many publications including ScoreGolf, Ski Press, The National Post, The Globe and Mail, Food and Drink and websites including Gault Millau's Gayot.com. www.margaretswaine.com

Photo credits
Margaret Swaine: Harvest golf and vineyards, Summerhill Pyramid Winery.
Thompson Okanagan Tourism: lupines (Don Weixl), fall vineyard (Don Weixl), vineyard (J. F. Bergeron), vineyard (Jason Cannon)

If you go
Wines can be ordered directly from the wineries' websites and shipped to your home.
Cedar Creek Estate Winery: www.cedarcreek.bc.ca
Quails' Gate Estate Winery: www.quailsgate.com
Okanagan Golf Alliance: www.spectaculargolf.com 1-800-930-4622
GolfBC: www.golfbc.com or 1-800-446-5322
Okanagan Wine Country Tours (Chip & Sip) www.okwinetours.com

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A Peak Experience Back In Time

It's just before eleven on a Saturday morning, and we're standing with a handful of skiers at the top of Sunburst Express. Though the mountain breeze brushes my face and bites through my woolen toque, both hands feel hot and clammy. I know it has nothing to do with the weather. This is clearly fear factor. A decade or two ago, skis had been as comfy on my feet as a pair of well-worn slippers, and I had been easily lured by any terrain that was steep and deep. But that was then. Now, while hauling a few extra Rubenesque pounds and a lot less muscle mass, I have quandaries about doing anything high speed - especially descending. Fortunately this second largest ski area in BC has come up with a solution.
     Sun Peaks Resort, just forty five minutes from Kamloops, also caters to those in search of less adrenaline-pumped activity. Instead of taking this downhill plunge, I could strap on some cross country skis or snowshoes. As well as the 28 kilometers of groomed trails that lace this destination's contours, there are an additional dozen that meander through the mellow backcountry. That'll surely keep my pacemaker happy. Or maybe I'll rely on some other sources of energy to do the job. There are huskies for dog sledding, Clydesdales for sleigh rides and even a gravity-driven downhill transporter that goes by the name of sno-limo. This eco-friendly joy ride will provide the ultimate descent, and without any self-propelled effort from moi. While the operator maneuvers the ski-framed contraption over lumps and bumps, I'd be able to take it easy and enjoy the scenery. Yes, this form of exploration sounds right up my alley.
     Or I might choose to ditch the adventure angle altogether and go totally slow-mo. Nestled at the base of these embracing peaks is a Bavarian-like pedestrian village that even Heidi would love. A selection of shops and bistros hug up to top-notch lodgings, aprés ski hot spots and pampering spas. There's no doubt that I could idle here in relaxation mode for the majority of my stay.
     But first and foremost, I have to find a way to get down. Sweat begins to bead on my brow as I ponder my options. Will I be able to absorb the mogul mounds and fresh cache of powder that waits before me? Is there a winding cruiser that offers an easier way out for the less courageous? I've heard that every lift at Sun Peaks has a variety of choices, but what happens if I find the simplest cat track impassable? My heart races at the thought of take off. And then, thankfully, just as there seems to be no hope, help arrives.
     As well as the Director of Skiing and Ambassador for the resort, the acclaimed Olympian, Nancy Greene, meets, greets and guides - and usually twice every day! (an added bonus with each day pass!) Her smile is instantly infectious and her energy is super-sized. After simple introductions, she's memorized everyone's name and knows our level of ability. "There are over a hundred and twenty runs here at Sun Peaks," she says with pride, "so we have lots to choose from. Just follow closely and we'll check out a few together." My quivering knees slow to a mild tremor and before I have time to dwell on the inevitable beyond, we're off!
     The guided tour soon doubles as a group lesson, and I feel privileged to be getting tips from one of the best. "Shift your weight on each turn, put more pressure on the balls of your feet, and relax those arms." The principles sound simple, as Nancy coaxes and coaches, but initially I feel as awkward as a new born calf. Then, whether due to some kind of magical synchronicity, or effective prayer, the moves all gel together. And before we're down from the first run, my 'Big Easy' Head ski rentals are delightfully living up to their name.
     Nancy keeps us in tow for a few more runs then unleashes us to check out Sun Peak's three embracing mountains. Together they boast a total of 12 lifts, 880 meters of vertical, and 3,678 acres of ski-able terrain. And from every unloading platform, we discover a fine balance of expert, intermediate and beginner routes that trail back to the energized hub.

     The original Tod Mountain had always been a mogul magnet in my youth and although it still takes the cake for challenging bowls and perilous fall lines, there's now Five Mile Run that delivers us safely back home. Sundance is the queen bee for groomed trails and terrain parks, and on its lower levels we spot little tykes who are having a hay day at Kids Ranch. Mt. Morrisey is the newest kid on the block and offers us everything from gravity-defying chutes to glade skiing between frosted evergreens. Every inch is draped in epic powder and each journey we take is uncluttered and serene.
     While I remain riveted to cruisers, aptly named, Mid Life Crises and Second Growth, Brent tackles the untracked gullies where Static Cling, Agitator, and Spin Cycle hang out. And just like a typical laundry day, they are truly unruly and rigorous. Although he generally beats me to the base, we both arrive totally spent of energy and craving for more.
     From the top of Morrisey Express, we have a picturesque vista of the village below. Camouflaged amongst the pastel coloured condos, hotels, and recreation rivals is Nancy Greene's Cahilty Lodge. The family run property, operated by her husband and general manager, Al Raine, provides us with all the comforts of home and has been awarded the Best Hotel Service by Ski Canada Magazine. After experiencing Nancy's gracious hospitality today we can see why.
     "Shall we head down and hit the hot tub?" Brent suggests, "My quads are ready to call it quits." He says, while shifting his weight. I check out my pocket map and trace the route that leads to the challenging terrain at Tod Mountain. "How 'bout just one more?" I reply. "The run called, Back In Time, will lead us to Top Of the World, where we're sure to find some steep and deep."

Jane Cassie and husband-photographer, Brent, have been featured in Northwest Travel Magazine, North American Inns Resorts & B&B Magazine, Spa Life Magazine, and INNspire Magazine as well as Canadian and US newspapers. Jane is co-owner/editor of Travel Writers' Tales www.travelwriterstales.com.

Photo credits
Brent Cassie and Adam Stein: Sun Peaks village from the lift, dog sledding, Nancy Greene, Steep and deep.

If you go
Sun Peaks Resort: http://www.sunpeaksresort.com/Winter/default.aspx
Nancy Greene's Cahilty Lodge: http://www.cahiltylodge.com/

What's happening, money, distance, time?
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From Rieslings to Rattlesnakes

The Okanagan Valley, which cuts through the mountainous terrain of British Columbia with the precision of a surgical incision, is quite different from the rest of Canada, as my wife, Allyson, and I discovered recently. In a land renowned for ice and snow, the Okanagan sports a warm Mediterranean climate and, combined with the soft contours of the landscape, reminded us of New Zealand
     The shimmering blue waters of Okanagan Lake fill the valley floor for almost its entire 160-kilometre length as it stretches from Osoyoos near the United States border due north to Vernon. The long lake offers sandy beaches as a cool refuge from the summer heat as well as a range of water sports including sailing, fishing and swimming. However, we kept a wary eye out for Ogopogo, a legendary monster that is reputed to dwell below the waves.
     Kelowna, the valley's largest settlement and, situated halfway up the valley, was a good base for our explorations. It also has a renowned Cultural District-recently recognized as the "Best in Canada"-that covers six blocks encompassing galleries, museums, theatres and artists' studios. We found that the gardens, sculptures and pathways along the waterfront were a delightful place to promenade in the evenings and offered a never-ending variety of people watching.
     Blessed with rich soils and plentiful irrigation water, the Okanagan is lush and fertile; all through the summer and fall roadside stands are piled high with nature's bounty of fruits and vegetables. Grapes and wine, which date back 140 years to the early missionaries, dominate the valley and today over 100 wineries offer world-class vintages. We spent several afternoons wending our way along country roads amongst long rows of vines that march up and down the valley sides like platoons of soldiers. We stopped at numerous wineries to sample Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, Pinot Noirs and Canada's specialty, ice wine.
     Allyson's favourite was Summerhill Pyramid Winery, perched high on the valley slope, where we sampled champagne with wonderful vistas. Steve Cipes, the proprietor, led us into the dark, spiritual depths of the pyramid, an exact scale replica of the Great Pyramid of Egypt. "The pyramid channels the earth's flux of magnetism," he explained. "All our wines are aged here so they can be infused with this energy."
     One day, Allyson and I went hiking in Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park just south of Kelowna. Following the trail through a ponderosa-pine forest along the rolling valley side we passed soaring cliffs, waterfalls and had sweeping panoramas of the lake. The trail wound through the charred devastation caused by the great forest fire of 2003, which contrasted with the green tinge of re-growth. Then the steep walls of Wild Horse Canyon enclosed us and we thought of ghosts of Salish Indians who used to trap wild stallions here.

     The Okanagan Valley is also busy in the winter season for the surrounding hills offer downhill and cross-country skiing, snow shoeing, snowmobiling and, of course, there is always ice fishing. Mt. Baldy Ski Resort is located near Osoyoos and Big White Ski Resort is near Kelowna.
     At the southern end of the Okanagan Valley is a truly unique habitat: a desert. At the Osoyoos Desert Centre we strolled along a boardwalk that carried us through a fragile sun-burnt landscape of antelope brush and sage that is home to many rare and endangered species including the badger, the burrowing owl and the rattlesnake. As Joanne Muirhead, the Director, explained, "Here at the Desert Centre we are striving to protect this unique and beautiful ecosystem. It's the only one in Canada and with the rapid development in this area, it could be gone in 15 years." Allyson and I agreed that that should not happen.
     The clear night skies have made the Osoyoos area a Mecca for astronomers with their telescopes. One night we drove high up the valley slope to visit with Jack Newton, an internationally renowned amateur astronomer and his Observatory Bed and Breakfast. We sat in a comfortable 16-seat theatre, sipping wine, while Jack showed spectacular photos of galaxies, sun spots and rings of distant planets on a wall-sized screen. Then we climbed to the top floor and gazed through his 16-inch telescope complete with a rotating domed roof at the moon's craters and other wonders of the cosmos.
     My favourite winery was NK'MIP Cellars owned by the Osoyoos Indian Band. As we learned to our delight, the arid desert climate produces big bruising reds and crisp whites. We sampled Merlots and Chardonnays surrounded by vibrant native masks, paintings and carvings featuring bears, beavers and eagles.
     Then, we wandered next door to the NK'MIP Desert Cultural Centre where the displays and films gave a fascinating insight into the history and culture of the Osoyoos Indian Band. We strolled along a network of trails through the dry desert landscape and a reconstructed native village including a cool pit house.
     We watched as a rattlesnake that had been implanted with a radio transmitter was released into the wild as part of the Centre's Rattlesnake Research Program. Wayne McKibbon, the chief biologist, explained, "We have placed transmitters in over 400 rattlers in the past three years and are getting to know a lot about their behaviour. We even built a snake-proof fence to divert one of their regular routes away from the campground." As the snake emerged from the bag we were surprised to see its rattle had been painted in bright stripes, like a fancy spa pedicure. "We give each rattler a distinctive code so we can identify them," McKibbon said.
     A variety of golf courses abound in the Okanagan. The Sonora Dunes course in Osoyoos, for example, is renowned for its resident rattlesnakes. We were warned to tread carefully when we hit into the rough.
     On our last evening, Allyson and I sat on a winery patio enjoying dinner and sipping a wine as the setting sun glistened on the lake and framed the hills in fiery pastels. We raised our glasses and promised to return to this sunny paradise.

Hans Tammemagi has written two travel books: Exploring Niagara - The Complete Guide to Niagara Falls & Vicinity and Exploring the Hill - A Guide to Canada's Parliament Past & Present. His work is often featured in Osprey and CANWEST papers.

Photo credits
Hans Tamemmagi

If you go
www.destinationosoyoos.com & www.tourismkelowna.com: general information and accommodation
www.bestwesterninnkelowna.com: in Kelowna, stay at the Best Western Inn, 2402 Highway 97 North www.summerhill.bc.ca: Summerhill Pyramid Winery, 4870 Chute Lake Road, Kelowna
www.jacknewton.com & www.spiritridge.ca in Osoyoos, stay at the Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa, 1200 Rancher Creek Road or the Observatory B&B
www.nkmipcellars.com: NK'MIP Cellars winery: 1400 Rancher Creek Road, Osoyoos
www.desert.org: Osoyoos Desert Centre, 146th Avenue
www.nkmipdesert.com: NK'MIP Desert Cultural Centre, 1000 Rancher Creek Road, Osoyoos.

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