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Floating with an Eagle - or
several hundred!
© By Diane Selkirk
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Our raft leisurely drifted down the Squamish River, floating past two fishermen in hip waders, casting for spawning chum salmon. Mist rose from the water, the Tantalus Mountains, a snow capped backdrop. It took me a longer than others to see the Bald Eagles, and to their merriment, I excitedly pointed out the first one I saw, perched on a logjam. I realized that the white-headed eagle shared the logs with six dark-coloured juveniles and in the tree behind, there were another eight adults. Gradually, I began to process the scene: hundreds of eagles perching, feeding and soaring along the snowy banks of the river.
Initially, the intrepid suggestion of a mid-winter rafting trip on the Squamish River sounded too cold to be any fun. I visualized freezing my way down rapids - catching the odd glimpse of an eagle through icy spray. My 5-year old daughter, Maia, more apprehensive, became fixated on a photograph that she had come across; an overturned raft, with passengers flung into frothing water. However, instead of white water disaster, the "Eagle Float" trip is named so for a good reason.
One of the best and unique ways to view the famous Brackendale eagles, raft trips are family-friendly, half-day adventures. From November through February yearly along the Squamish and Cheakamus Rivers in Squamish, the largest concentration of Bald Eagles in the world gather to savour spawned out salmon. People travel great distances to observe this magnificent sight - using viewpoints along the dyke in the Brackendale area.
Rafting provides a new perspective, meandered
down the river with time to study the eagles, watch their interactions and learn about their behaviour from our guide.
After meeting at the Sunwolf Outdoor Centre, my husband, Evan, Maia and I, joined two other participants, Klaudi and Randy and our guide, Shelagh Thompson aboard a bus for a 10-minute drive to the launch point. Crunching over snow and ice, we stumbled and slid, manoeuvring the raft to the river.
After a quick lesson in paddling skills, we launched the boat. The mountains first caught my eye as Mount Alpha rose up from the river, densely-forested slopes blanketed with fresh snow. Then, I noticed the eagles. I've seen eagles in groups of three and four before, occasionally as many as eight or ten together. But what happens in Brackendale is stimulus overload. For the first few minutes, we took turns pointing out large groups of eagles; then, we stopped in awe. Eagle calls whistled shrilly through the air and as we silently floated. I heard the whoosh of wings beat on take off.
Despite the overcast December, rain held off, making the day perfect for eagle viewing. Dressed in fleece layers, tall rubber boots, hats and mitts, we were cozy while the raft floated in the current. Occasionally, Shelagh asked us to paddle when we drifted too close to the eagles.
Although there are no guidelines, a volunteer at the Eagle Run viewing centre explained that good eagle ethics mean you don't raft until after the morning feed and stay clear of the bank that they favour.
Still, we were as close as I've ever been to a wild eagle. Maia pointed out two squabbling over a salmon carcass, the battle stately yet ridiculous with four more salmon beside the pair. Maia rooted for the juvenile, contending that he found the salmon first and it was, "finder's keepers."
The Brackendale phenomenon is beautiful and potentially tragic, eagles congregating at the confluence of the Squamish, Cheakamus and Mamquam rivers for a millennium but not in the same large numbers. Diminished salmon stocks and logging of their fragile habitat peaked the concentration of eagles at 3,769 in January 1994. Conservation of the surrounding 1,500 acres allows the raptors to continue to thrive there for now.
Along with eagles, we shared the river with Trumpeter Swans, Mergansers and comical seals. The seals floated alongside then dove to pop up with a splash a minute later in an unexpected place. Their playful, puppy-dog eyes mirrored Maia's giggles as it appeared they were having as much fun as us. The play contrasted with the eagles and a heavy feeling of concern. Shelagh told us that the salmon run is much smaller than it should be. Maia asked me what would happen to the eagles if the salmon stopped coming. I didn't answer.
As the trip concluded, Maia alternately looked at the bus waiting on the riverbank and back at the eagles on the other side. "This is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. I need to remember it," she said, staring hard.
Diane Selkirk writes for a variety of newspapers and magazines in both Canada and the US.
http://www.dianeselkirk.com
Photo credits: Diane Selkirk
Vancouver Coast and Mountain Region Tourism: Squamish, Squamish River, Stawamus, the Chief, Squamish
If You Go:
Brackendale Winter Eagle Festival: Call the Brackendale Art Gallery: 604-898-3333 or visit
www.brackendaleeagles.com
Sunwolf Outdoor Centre offers half-day Eagle Floats for about $84(US) per person. Visitors also have the options of combining the raft trip with a night in the newly renovated riverside cabins for $114. Call 1-877-806-8046 or visit
http://www.sunwolf.net
You can also observe eagles from several stationary viewing areas. The main "Eagle Run" viewpoint is located on the municipal dyke on Government Road in Brackendale. Exit Highway 99 at Mamquam Road and head north on Government Road to the viewing area. An interpretive program explains the eagle and salmon life cycle, and visitors get an up-close view through telescopes. Volunteer interpreters are on hand each weekend until early February.
Visitor Information Centre in Squamish: For more information, call 604-892-9244.
U. S. Visitors: Traveling to Brackendale - Drive time to Squamish from Seattle is 3.5 hrs (Sunwolf is 8.5 miles further on).
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Desolation...at the end of the Road
© By Jane Cassie
Desolation Sound. The name justifiably evokes images of solitude, peace and tranquility, and for those traveling to the north end of Highway 101, that's what you'll find.
Our journey along the Sunshine Coast is well worth the five hour travel time from Vancouver. Although intercepted by two ferry sailings, the scenic highway hugs up to a rugged coastline that is downright breathtaking. Gnarled arbutus trees and thick-rooted evergreens frame peek-a-boo ocean vistas where kayakers, canoeists and sailors have a heyday in the protected waterways.
With such diverse marine life, it comes as no surprise that the Sunshine Coast has also become a diver's den. The sheltered waters ensure year-round visibility, and encounters with the undersea metropolis are possible for both the rookie and veteran diver. Novice scuba hounds can be seen bobbing beneath the surface at Trail Bay,
where hidden treasures include everything from antique bottles to remnants of the steamship days. Tzoonie Narrows is another aquatic hot spot, not only for the newbies in neoprene, but for night seekers as well. With its slower tidal stream, checking out sea lemons, lingcod, and silvery perch that thrive below, is a breeze. The more adept adventurer may head to Martin's Cove or the popular Skookumchuck Rapids where these 'strong waters' certainly live up to their name.
Land lovers, like ourselves, are lured to the Mother lode of 'grounded' adventures along this coastline. As well as nature walks and hiking trails, this byway is dotted with alluring picnic pull-ins and provincial playgrounds. We discover that there's everything from rustic backwoods sites, and boat 'access only' parks, to lush green spaces that are chock-a-block full of amenities.
Twelve kilometers south of Sechelt is one of these camping magnets. Aging Hemlocks and Douglas fir cocoon the chiseled out tent sites at Roberts Creek Provincial Park, and at low tide
a cobblestone beachfront offers an awesome arena for viewing starfish, mussels and oysters. If your visit is during the cooler months, there's even a good chance of spotting a seal or a spouting whale out on the rippled ocean.
Porpoise Bay Provincial Park is another popular place to build a campfire. It's situated at the southern end of Sechelt Inlet and is separated from the Strait of Georgia by a narrow isthmus of land. Tall timbers shade the grassy areas of this
parkland paradise and a sandy beachfront hems its tranquil shoreline. As well as hosting groups and families, kayakers take reprieve here after a day's paddle on the still waters.
At the northern point of this narrow channel sits the pit stop of Egmont and a short puddle jump away (via BC Ferries), Saltery Bay. Here, we discover another woodsy wonderland and neighboring marine park where urchins and crabs literally hang out.
Although absorbing the great outdoors is a natural phenomenon while traveling the Sunshine Coast, you don't have to go totally primitive. As well as places to pitch our tent, we're lured by a number of pampering gems that glitter along this highway. One in particular has figured out how divinely to integrate both qualities.
Rockwater Secret Cove Resort, just past the hamlet of Halfmoon Bay, offers sanctuary confines with a rural twist. A labyrinth of boardwalks extend between evergreens and lead to sumptuous Tenthouse Suites that supersede anything known to the Swiss Family Robinson. As well as providing some quintessential R&R (relaxation and romance), each haven boasts enough posh amenities to entice long-term hibernation. Heated slate floors, hydro-therapy tubs, and flickering fireplaces all snug into the soft-sided abodes that view Malaspina Strait. Similar perks are also provided in the Ocean Edge cabins and Pool Side rooms, and if you can ever tear yourselves away from these enclaves, a variety of outdoor adventures are just outside the door.
The winding highway comes to an abrupt end thirty minutes past Powell River, and just three kilometers shy of its grand finalé is the turn-off to another whimsical retreat. Although they don't suspend from tree limbs, most of the ten unique craftsman-built lodgings at Desolation Resort have been hewn from surrounding cedars and firs. Rural charm makes its way to each fanciful interior where staircases lead to cozy lofts and bunked sleeping quarters snuggle into alcoves. Some chalets offer one room, others two, and all boast decks that offer a sensational Okeover Arm view.
Here, we end the day, and as the rays from the setting sun cast a palate of pinks and golds across the sky, we gaze out at the picture-perfect setting of solitude, peace, tranquility and desolation - all at the end of Highway 101.
Jane Cassie and husband-photographer, Brent, have been featured in Northwest Travel Magazine, North American Inns, Resorts & B&B Magazine, Spa Life Magazine, and INNspire Magazine as well as Canadian and US newspapers. Jane is co-owner/editor of Travel Writers' Tales
www.travelwriterstales.com .
Photo credits
Jane Cassie: Sunshine Coast inlet, starfish, Jervis Inlet, Rockwater jet tub.
Vancouver Coast and Mountains Region Tourism: wildflowers, Douglas fir, fishing boat, creek, kayaking, pier, bay.
If You Go
Rockwater Secret Cove Resort1-Rockwater Secret Cove Resort
5356 Ole's Cove Road
Halfmoon Bay BC, V0N 1Y2
Tel: 877-296-4593 604-885-7038
reservations@rockwatersecretcoveresort.com
http://www.rockwatersecretcoveresort.com/
Desolation Resort
2694 Dawson Road
Okeover Inlet Powell River, BC Canada
Tel: 604-483-3592 or 1-800-399-3592
Email: info@desolationresort.com
http://www.desolationresort.com
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Leisurely Ladner
© By Diane Selkirk
There is something special about a working river - a tug and tow heading in from the sea, fishing boats speeding out for an opening, sedate freighters idling past. As pleasure boaters, we initially felt out of place on the Fraser - the other boats were busy, their crews labouring, while we meandered along, enjoying the sun. But our run up the river soon captivated us, and motoring with the mild current we watched the action for a few nautical miles before heading up the quiet Sea Reach channel.
Tucked off the South Arm of the Fraser River is the little village of Ladner, part of the municipality of Delta - and our destination. The village was born in 1873, when brothers William and Thomas Ladner built a wharf so farmers could ship their produce to the region's urban markets. A perfect reflection of the river, Ladner is an historic working town, filled with farmers and fishermen. The waterfront is not tourist driven; it's bustling with fishing boats and almost reluctantly seems to make space for pleasure craft.
At first, it seemed that our stay in Ladner would be a quiet one; we're used to tourist-oriented Gulf Island villages or empty coves. Yet, here we were in a lively little town that seemed quaint but uninteresting. It turned out that Ladner is simply an unassuming place. And the way to enjoy Ladner (or any place for that matter) was to look for its unique qualities. In Ladner, these qualities include a rich history of fishing and farming and an abundance of parkland.
There are a wealth of riverfront and dyke trails for visitors to stroll along uncrowded paths through forests and wetlands. We started with the trail that ran past Captain's Cove Marina; then headed towards downtown Ladner. Near town, we diverged from the trail and headed into Ladner Harbour Park.
The park offered a playground, which delighted our daughter Maia - and after playtime, we continued along the trail, enjoying the river, ending at a scenic viewpoint of Ladner's busy harbour.
I could devote hours watching the harbour. The narrow channel houses a large commercial fishing fleet and a variety of waterfront businesses. Unlike many waterfronts today, Ladner's is not gentrified for tourists. Instead, it maintains authentic charm, augmented by a few derelict boats and buildings.
We finished harbour watching sooner than liked as we realized that the local museum was nearby with limited hours (10am - 3:30pm Tuesday-Saturday). As connoisseurs of small town museums, the Delta Museum and Archives, housed in a 1912 Tudor-style heritage building was a gem, an unexpected pleasure.
At the door we were greeted warmly and informed that the museum's admission was by donation. The docent briefed us, outlining the museum contents; then left to wander. Divided into three floors, the basement is a well-designed, early street scene - complete with general store, schoolhouse and a jail. The main floor depicts a range of rooms that might have been found in Victorian or Edwardian-era homes. The top floor captivates visiting boaters, highlighting the historic waterfront uses in Ladner.
Our visit coincided with Ladner's Village Market - an event in the village centre every other Sunday - June through August. Stalls selling the usual array of local arts and crafts and a sumptuous variety of local produce lined the streets. Live music and a variety of activities in cordoned off streets provided a festive, carnival air.
Visiting the market and checking the local produce made us curious about the surrounding farms. We decided that it would be fun to check out nearby Westham Island and visit one of the many berry farms and the famous berry winery.
When we reached the Island, we were treated to the sight of the old wooden deck, one-lane swing bridge in action, opening passage for a boat. Then, we visited the renowned Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary. Located on a small island at the tip Westham Island, the lush sanctuary provides a habitat for 287 species of resident and migrating birds. Visitors watch birds from a three-story observation tower or one of five bird blinds located on the network of walking trails.
Next, we stopped in at Westham Island Winery where I discovered that black currants are a surprisingly good ingredient to fashion wine. At Emma Lee Farms, we blueberry-picked then carried on our exploration to Westham Island Herb Farm, an organic farm that invites visitors to stroll through the crops. We happily discovered that the farm grew artichokes - a vegetable we assumed didn't grow at our latitude. Stocking up on artichokes and other delicacies, we passed up Ladner's restaurants to plan an onboard feast of locally grown produce, complete with cranberry wine and a blueberry cobbler for desert. Dodging a few slow moving tractors, we headed back to the boat with our bounty.
Dusk on the river is pleasant. The birds become active and a light breeze discourages mosquitoes. The setting sun reflects on the calm water and the mountain peaks grow steeper and close. An occasional Jet Ski interrupted our idyll, but the consensus was that our river run up the Fraser to Ladner was an unqualified success, a unique option for a lazy, midsummer weekend.
Diane Selkirk writes for a variety of newspapers and magazines in both Canada and the US.
http://www.dianeselkirk.com
Photo credits
Diane Selkirk: Ladner harbour, Delta Museum and Archive, Westham Island artichoke
If You Go
Bird sanctuary:
www.reifelbirdsanctuary.com
Check the Market Dates:
www.ladnerbusiness.com
Delta Museum: www.corp.delta.bc.ca/EN/main/residents/museum.html
Winery: www.westhamislandwinery.com
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Natural Splendor in British Columbia's Fraser Valley
© By Barbara Pearson
Leaving Vancouver city limits is mandatory if you truly want to experience British Columbia; and you won't be disappointed if you venture into the Fraser Valley, a lush green oasis nestled between the Coast and the Cascade mountain ranges. This valley derives its name from the Fraser River, one of Canada's largest, foraging through the southwestern end of the province and emptying into the Pacific Ocean. For optimum viewing of the area, the most desirable route leads east on the Lougheed Highway, following the Fraser River on it's northern shore.
Approximately one hour east of Vancouver you arrive at Mission, a community of 35,000 whose inhabitants hug the mountainside. I recommend a short detour off the highway to visit Westminster Abbey, a Benedictine monastery that occupies a 200 acre site on a 180 metre elevation. It affords a panoramic view of the Fraser Valley as well as a unique opportunity to experience the lifestyle of the monks. Take the opportunity to visit the chapel to view the beautiful stained glass windows that
progress in circular fashion through the colors of a prism.
Passing through Mission, the highway becomes a secondary road and you roam through areas inhabited by many of the coastal First Nation tribes. Often, the road hugs the precipitous side of the mountains while the mighty Fraser winds its way through the lower terrain. The scenery is breathtaking.
Situated at the eastern end of the Fraser Valley at the confluence of the Fraser and the Coquihalla Rivers resides the small town of Hope. Only a few miles from Hope are the Othello Tunnels, one of the prime highlights in this part of B.C. In the early 1900's, the Canadian Pacific Railway was built over three mountain ranges. The engineers constructed a straight line of tunnels through the Coquihalla Gorge, a 300 foot deep channel of granite, an engineering marvel. The tunnels were surprisingly named after Shakespearean characters; hence, the name "Othello Tunnels." The railway was abandoned many years ago, but the tunnels are maintained
and the railway bed has been converted into part of the Trans Canada trail. It hooks up with the Kettle Valley Railway in the Okanagan region of B.C. There is an easy 3.5 kilometer round trip walk that permits truly spectacular viewing opportunities. Remarkably, the only cost is a few dollars for a parking ticket purchased at the entrance.
After some exercise, head west for a well-deserved rest at Harrison Hot Springs, located on the shores of Harrison Lake. This compromises the largest lake is southwestern B.C. and its known for the beautiful colour of water and a sandy beach, a rare phenomenon in this mountainous province. The lake spreads over 40 miles, as deep as 900 feet in some spots even though sitting a few feet above sea level. It's worth experiencing the mineral-rich, hot spring water, piped into the local public pool, believed to be a "healing place" by the Coast Salish First Nations
peoples. There are many choices for accommodation; however, it is a truly magical experience to spend time in the hot springs pools and spa located within the Harrison Hot Springs Resort.
There are pools of varied temperature gradients at the hotel, depending on your preference. I enjoyed soaking during the evening when weary from sightseeing. There, I blissfully reposed amidst the steam slowly rising off the surface while soft lights twinkled in the garden.
To leave Harrison Hot Springs, one travels through Agassiz, a small farming community where the magnificent, 7000 foot Mount Cheam dominates the skyline. The town is a farming community where it is worth the diversion to visit Farm House Natural Cheeses, a working dairy farm where the whole family is involved in making delicious cheeses. If you enjoy the delicate taste of goat cheese, try the Cranberry Goat Caerphilly for a spectacular gustatory sensation.
Once your appetite is satisfied, follow Highway 1 westbound on the south side of the Fraser River, but be sure to allow time for a few more stops. Minter Gardens is an exquisite 27 acre garden that contains 11 themed gardens, two restaurants, a wine shop and a store to pick up some unique gifts. In harmony with
its natural surroundings,
many of the breathtaking plant displays are built into the rocks.
A few minutes drive away from Minter Gardens affords one of the area's most beautiful views, Bridal Veil Falls.
Take a 15 minute walk to the falls which cascade 60 metres down the side of Mount Cheam and create a veil-like effect as the water tumbles over the smooth rock, creating a fine mist. This lushly forested area is a wonderful environment to relax and catch one's breath before heading back to the frantic pace of the city.
Barb Pearson is a photographer and writer who explores the world and wants to share her experiences and favourite locations with kindred souls seeking an enchanting place to visit. She lives in the Fraser Valley. barbpearson@gmail.com
Photo credits:
Barbara Pearson, Karl Pearson: view of Fraser River from Westminster Abbey; stained glass windows in Westminster Abbey chapel; Othello Tunnels and Coquihalla Gorge; Agassiz farmland with Mount Cheam in the background.
Vancouver Coast and Mountains Region Tourism: Fraser River, Barn near Chilliwack, boating on the Harrison, fishing on the Fraser.
If you go:
Harrison Hot Springs: www.harrison.ca
Harrison Hot Springs Resort: www.harrisonresort.com
Minter Gardens: www.mintergardens.com
The District of Mission: www.mission.ca
The Farm House Natural Cheeses: www.farmhousecheeses.com
Vancouver, Coast and Mountains Tourism: www.vcmbc.com
Westminster Abbey: 34224 Dewdney Trunk Road, Mission, BC, Ph: 604-826-8975
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You Meet The Nicest People
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More informative articles organized by your favourite writers.
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When travelling to BC's Coastal Region, you may wish to investigate the following
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