|
|
The "Route of the Totems" on Vancouver Island
© By Ann Wallace
|
|
Spectacular islands, sparkling seascapes, towering forests, quaint and isolated coastal communities: travellers find such appealing places in many areas of the world; but add the discovery of totem poles to the equation, and there's only one place to go ... the Pacific Northwest. And within that region, British Columbia's Vancouver Island is the best place to start exploring this unique culture.
Aboriginal people made their homes on the Pacific Northwest coast for thousands of years, where they lived within complex social structures of chiefs, nobles, commoners and slaves. As hunters, fishers and gatherers, they lived on what the natural world provided: mammals and fowl, fish, molluscs, and vegetation. Animal furs, bones, grasses, shells and stones provided the materials necessary for their daily lives, but of all the natural materials available to them, none was as important as the wood from the massive deciduous and coniferous trees of the region. With this wood, they fashioned sturdy homes, tools and canoes. And, they created a unique art form: the totem pole.
Aboriginal peoples appreciated and celebrated the inter-connectedness of living things. They were practical, but they also held strong beliefs in the spirit world, paying respectful tribute to all that they received from nature and letting their imaginations soar with mythic creatures and powerful spirits. They 'wrote' their histories, stories and beliefs by carving totem poles, soaring red cedar tree trunks, created to commemorate important events in the lives of the leading families in the various aboriginal nations, raised with great fanfare at spectacular potlatch ceremonies.
Enter the early explorers and traders, followed by adventurers and artifact hunters who plundered the totem poles for museums and collectors around the world. In addition, potlatches were banned by the Canadian government in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and the art of carving totem poles was at risk of becoming lost. But in 1966, a celebration was required to mark the centennial of the joining of Vancouver Island and the mainland to form the colony of British Columbia. An innovative committee came up with the idea of involving the province's First Nations people in a pole carving project; thus was Vancouver Island's "Route of the Totems" born.
Most first-time travellers to Vancouver Island include a visit to the city of Victoria, British Columbia's capital city, in their itineraries. Arrive by ferry from Tsawwassen on BC's mainland or from Washington State, and you will be greeted by a totem pole. At the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal stands the totem pole that won first prize on the Route: a Grizzly Bear and Whale pole created by Henry Hunt, one of the most skilled pole carvers of modern times, while at the Washington State Ferries Terminal in Sidney, visitors are greeted by a Bear and Frog pole carved by Tony Hunt, one of several of Henry's sons who have become carvers.
Proceed into the city itself and there are many more poles to be discovered. Visitors to the Royal British Columbia Museum are greeting in the courtyard by an impressive pole by Richard Hunt, another of Henry's sons: a pole celebrating his family's proud history with crests, masks, chiefs and supernatural creatures. And adjacent to the museum is popular Thunderbird Park, created specifically to exhibit a fine collection of totem poles and to show its many visitors how the poles are created and erected.
What is a capital city without an impressive Parliament Building? Victoria is no exception, and on its grounds, overlooking Victoria's delightful and bustling inner harbour stands - you guessed - another renowned totem pole. Called the "Knowledge Totem," this pole was created by master carver, Cicero August of the Cowichan Tribe and his sons, Darrell and Doug. The pole was erected on the occasion of the closing of the 14th Commonwealth Games in Auckland, New Zealand, as Victoria took over its role as host of the 15th Games held in 1994. The pole's loon, fisherman, bone game player and frog represent lessons of the past and hope for the future.
Victoria isn't the only location on Vancouver Island to discover fine totem poles. Far from it! Duncan, a small city about 65 km. north of Victoria, is known as the "City of Totem Poles," so created in 1983 by Mayor Douglas Baker to lure visitors to his town. Twelve large cedar logs were donated by the local logging company; some skilled carvers from the region were commissioned; and soon the project began to take place. Today there are about 80 poles in the town and along the adjacent stretch of the Trans Canada Highway, with 41 of the poles included on a self-guided tour. This is the site of the pole with the world-record width - Cedar Man. Carved by Richard Hunt in 1988 from a tree eastimated to be 775 years old, its diameter measures over 6 ft. in diameter.
Proceeding northwards on the Trans Canada Highway the traveller passes such delightful settlements as Nanaimo, Qualicum Beach, Courtenay and Campbell River, all homes to fine totem poles. And then, in the north, comes Alert Bay, one of the few locations on the BC coast where totems remain undisturbed on their original site: the Namgis Burial Grounds, which are closed to the public but whose poles can easily be seen from the roadside. But it is not this cemetery that makes Alert Bay famous for totem pole lovers ... it is the fact that this town boasts the world's tallest totem pole, a two-part, fourteen-figure pole that soars to 173 feet. This pole was carved by six Kwakwaka'wakw artists and thus is not specific to one particular family, but it celebrates the several tribes of the Kwakwaka'wakw nation that have been united by marriage.
Port Hardy, in the north of Vancouver Island, is a well-used arrival or departure point. There, to greet or wish bon voyage, stands the first or last of the "Route of the Totems" pole, a Henry Hunt creation portraying Grizzly Bear clutching a salmon.
The more one learns about totem poles, the more fascinating they become. And seeing them in the spectacular natural surroundings of Vancouver Island is an incomparable experience. Travel the "Route of the Totems," and meet Thunderbird and Killer Whale, Eagle and Raven and Owl, Wolf, Black and Grizzly Bear, the spirits of the Forest and the Sea, two-headed serpents and mythical birds, even a boy with a missing finger that remembers a childhood accident.
Today's world-wide interest in totem poles has led to a renewed sense of pride and identity among the carvers and their families and tribes while the poles themselves, some with outstretched arms and wings to welcome visitors, provide the viewer with fascinating glimpses into a world full of natural and imagined wonders.
I am greatly indebted to Hilary Stewart and her wonderful book Looking at Totem Poles, which led to my interest in these artifacts, and taught me so much as I travelled through Vancouver Island.
Ann Wallace is editor of The Travel Society Magazine www.thetravelsociety.com.
Photo credits:
Ann Wallace
Mike Keenan
Tourism Vancouver Island:
Alert Bay: Big House photos, First Nations Carver, Totem Pole in Ucluelet: ChrisCheadle.com
Alert Bay: totem poles, Empress Hotel: George Fischer Photography
Crow on Totem Pole: Boomer Jerritt
If You Go:
Tourism Vancouver Island: www.vancouverisland.travel
Tourism British Columbia: www.hellobc.com
Tourism Campbell River and Region: www.campbellriver.travel
BC Parks: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks
Comox Valley Tourism www.discovercomoxvalley.com
Nanaimo: http://www.nanaimo.ca/ or
www.tourismnanaimo.com
Port Hardy: http://www.PortHardy.travel
Parksville & Qualicum Beach www.visitParksvilleQualicumBeach.com
Totem Poles: http://www.sfu.ca/archaeology/museum/totempoles/totem_home.htm
Victoria: http://www.tourismvictoria.com/
Tourism Cowichan www.visit.cowichan.net
What's happening, money, distance, time?
Media Guide: http://www.abyznewslinks.com/
Currency conversion: http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Distance calculator: http://www.indo.com/distance/
Time zone converter: http://www.timezoneconverter.com/
Transportation, visas, health, maps and temperature
Airlines (Wikipedia): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airlines
Embassies/Consulates (Embassy World): http://www.embassyworld.com/
Health precautions (WHO): http://www.who.int/ith/en/
Maps (Mapquest) U.S. & Canada: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/main.adp
Maps (Mapquest) World: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/main.adp?country=GB
Temperature (Temperature World): http://www.temperatureworld.com/
Ten Shades of Green on Vancouver Island
© By Hans Tammemagi
Okay, you're worried about global warming, smog and toxic chemicals. You need a vacation, but you don't want to leave a large environmental footprint. Worry no more! Here are ten terrific ways to enjoy Vancouver Island, and they are all green. These exhilarating activities are not totally carbon neutral (you have to get there), but the emphasis is to reconnect yourself with the delicate beauty of nature while exploring it under your own steam.
1 - Watch the salmon spawn:
One of the best places to watch salmon spawning is Goldstream Provincial Park located 17 kilometres west of Victoria. Hiking trails meander beside the stream that ripples with salmon, and an interpretive centre explains their fascinating life cycle. Best time to visit is between October and December.
2 - Hike to the tallest waterfall in Canada:
Della Falls, at 440 metres, completely dwarfs Niagara Falls at a comparative paltry 57 metres. Located deep in Strathcona Provincial Park, the oldest in BC, Della Falls is surrounded by peaks that soar over 2,100 metres, sparkling alpine lakes and dense forests of aromatic fir and cedar. Strathcona Park Lodge is the perfect base for your hike, and it also offers rock climbing, kayaking, canoeing, natural history, wilderness survival, orienteering, mountaineering and more.
3 - Gaze up, up, up at big trees:
Cathedral Grove, located in MacMillan Provincial Park, provides one of the most accessible stands of giant Douglas fir trees on Vancouver Island. Here you can stroll through a network of trails under the shadow of towering, ancient Douglas fir trees, majestic giants untouched by the modern world - some more than 800 years old. West of Qualicum Beach and east of Port Alberni.
4 - Dive deep into the subterranean world:
Like a miner, don a hard hat with lamp and descend deep into utter darkness at the Horne Lake Caves northwest of Qualicum Beach. Slivers of light from your lamp reveal the unusual formations that dripping calcite solutions created over centuries. Delicate soda straws, bacon strips, stalagmites and stalactites cover the walls and ceilings. Feel like a tiny insect wandering in meandering arteries of an enormous stone giant. A pervading mood of dark powers, entombment and mysticism envelopes you. (Good caving can also be found at Little Huson Cave Park south of Port McNeil.)
5 - Visit the longest raptor flight cage in North America:
Watch in awe as eagles spread enormous wings and cruise effortlessly from one end of the 40-metre cage to the other. The North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre near Parksville acts as a hospital and rehabilitation compound for injured wildlife that provides medical attention to 1,000 animals and birds each year. It functions also as a wildlife showcase with educational displays and countless heartwarming stories. See Knut, a huge black bear abandoned by his mother, and Brian, a bald eagle whose shot-off beak was replaced by a prosthetic device.
6 - This art rocks:
One of the finest panels of prehistoric petroglyphs (figures carved on rock) in BC, named K'ak'awin, awaits your view at Sproat Lake Provincial Park, near Port Alberni, the salmon capital of the world. No one knows who carved it or why. Does it represent a mythical marine creature, perhaps an ancient Loch Ness monster? Enough mystery? Enjoy swimming at the fine beach or try some fishing.
7 - Float in a kayak:
Feel intimately part of the sea in a kayak, rising and falling with the swell, with only a few millimetres of plastic separating you from the deep blue. View seabirds, seals, sea lions and, if lucky, even killer whales. Vancouver Island is world famous for kayaking, especially on the more sheltered east coast, dotted with beguiling islets. It's rougher on the west coast, but good kayaking abounds, for example, at the Broken Island Group and Clayoquot Sound.
8 - Snooze in a tree:
Deep in the forest, a womb-like globe named Eryn hangs like a Christmas ornament. "A sphere is a perfect shape," explains Tom Chudleigh, its creator. "It represents wholeness and offers spiritual wellness." Inside, discover the snug living space, compact and finished with teak and mahogany. Sway magically with the breeze and feel like you are part of the forest kingdom. More important, you are treated to a wonderfully soothing sleep. Near Qualicum Beach.
9 - Ramble the rugged, northwestern tip:
For a multi-day wilderness hiking experience, nothing beats the Cape Scott and North Coast Trails northwest of Port Hardy at the tip of Vancouver Island. The trails wander 60 kilometres with half of them situated along coastal terrain offering views of the Cape Scott lighthouse, remnants of 19th century Danish settlements, old-growth Sitka spruce, remote beaches and amazing sea life. Prepare carefully; this is for experienced hikers.
10 - Swing like Tarzan:
Experience vertical adventure in a treetop obstacle course. The TreeGo course, which is part of Wild Play Element Park near Nanaimo, takes you high into a Douglas fir forest where you slide on zip lines and clamber amongst suspended bridges, scramble nets and swinging logs. (Zip line and high rope course are also available at Strathcona Park Lodge, see above).
Hans Tammemagi has written two travel books: Exploring Niagara - The Complete Guide to Niagara Falls & Vicinity and Exploring the Hill - A Guide to Canada's Parliament Past & Present. His work is often featured in Osprey and CANWEST papers.
Photo credits
Hans Tammemagi: Caving, Kayaks, Sphere, Tree Walking & Eagle
Tourism Vancouver Island:
Horne Lake Caves(2) Whale Watching: ChrisCheadle.com
Della Falls (3): George Fischer Photography
Fly-fishing on the Cowichan, Salmon - Cortes Island: Boomer Jerritt
If You Go
To plan your green getaway, visit: www.vancouverisland.travel
Goldstream Provincial Park: www.goldstreampark.com ;
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/goldstre.html
Della Falls: for Strathcona Park Lodge:
www.strathcona.bc.ca ;
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/strathcn/trails.html
Strathcona Provincial Park: www.strathconapark.org ;
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/strathco.html
Cathedral Grove: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/macmillan.html
Horne Lake Caves: www.hornelake.com ;
www.vancouverisland.travel/outdoor/caving
The North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre:www.niwra.org
Sproat Lake Provincial Park: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/sproat.html
Kayaking: http://www.vancouverisland.travel/outdoor/kayaking/
Eryn: www.freespiritspheres.com
Cape Scott and North Coast Trails: http://www.northernvancouverislandtrailssociety.com/ ;
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/cape.html
The TreeGo course: www.wildplayparks.com
What's happening, money, distance, time?
Media Guide: http://www.abyznewslinks.com/
Currency conversion: http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Distance calculator: http://www.indo.com/distance/
Time zone converter: http://www.timezoneconverter.com/
Transportation, visas, health, maps and temperature
Airlines (Wikipedia): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airlines
Embassies/Consulates (Embassy World): http://www.embassyworld.com/
Health precautions (WHO): http://www.who.int/ith/en/
Maps (Mapquest) U.S. & Canada: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/main.adp
Maps (Mapquest) World: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/main.adp?country=GB
Temperature (Temperature World): http://www.temperatureworld.com/
|
Vancouver Island's East Coast - a Pleasure Playground
© By Judi Lees
With more than 26 years of fishing under his belt, Randy MacKinnon has a stockpile of fish tales to tell. And when one enters 'the salmon capital of the world' as Campbell River, BC is known, fishing and listening to tales is what one does. I learn that Chinook can weigh in around 25 kilogram (55 pounds) but most are in the 4.5-11 kilogram (10-24 pound) category. And while Chinook are the fish of desire, Randy says the Chum are "highly under-rated in sports fishing" as they are fighters and a thrill to catch. Sadly, a hefty Chinook did not find its way to my line during three hours in Deep Water Bay, but thanks to our guide and the island-spangled setting, it was a spectacular day
Fishing is only one of many activities available at April Point Resort on Quadra Island. We explored this eastern shoreline of Vancouver Island, starting in Campbell River and then south to the Comox Valley. Defined in the tourism world as the 'north central island' it is a pleasure playground for outdoor enthusiasts. We kicked off the trip with a stay at the renowned lodge, a short water-taxi ride from Campbell River.
Much zestier than fishing, a speedy zodiac tour covered 70 km, whipped us over the Yuculta Rapids, explored pristine inlets, and carried us by Ripple Rock. Peaceful enough today, the underwater monolith of rock sunk many dozens of ships before it was ultimately destroyed itself in 1958 by the largest manmade explosion at the time. We slowed down to admire curious sea lions that surfaced beside the zodiac, no doubt wondering what this colourful strange species was, bundled up in orange, Michelin-Man type gear.
Kayaking from the lodge was more of a serene time. We paddled a dense shoreline of craggy evergreens draped in moss. However, there were moments of excitement as we watched for wild things and spotted eagles, mergansers, seals, sea lions and deer. No black bear showed up as it had earlier for one startled guest.
It's a hoot to zoom around Quadra Island by scooter, enjoying the fact that traffic is sparse and trees and beaches are numerous. Don't miss Rebecca Spit Provincial Park, arguably one of the province's most scenic beaches. For exercise, cycle into Quathiaski Cove or follow the numerous, inviting hiking trails. However, save time for what islands are truly meant for - sit on the deck of your cabin and absorb the ever-changing marine traffic.
In contrast, there are a couple of welcome touches of urban bliss available at this island retreat. Head into the dining room, and pull up at the sushi bar; with freshly-caught seafood, the sushi is superb. Don't miss the Aveda Spa at April Point Resort where you will be instantly converted to 'island time' as you relieve all of your stresses on the massage table.
If you visit this region June through October, book a tour to see Orca whales in Johnstone Strait. There are also bear-watching tours, aerial flights, biking trails and the unique opportunity to snorkel among teeming salmon.
Take a break from the great outdoors to explore the waterfront town of Campbell River: sweet little galleries and shops, pubs and restaurants overlooking the water. What's not to like? If time allows, dine at Painter's Lodge, April Point Resort's sister lodge, also run by Oak Bay Marine Group. Don't bypass The Campbell River Museum, the First Nations Gallery is a must-visit.
Heading south, to the Comox Valley, we visited with friends in Courtenay. Along with Comox and Cumberland, these are the main communities in the Valley. There are plenty of urban delights - restaurants, shops and galleries along with Crown Isle Resort and Golf Course - but our focus was to explore British Columbia's oldest park, Vancouver Island's largest.
Strathcona Provincial Park encompasses more than 245,000 hectares (500,000 acres) of sublime wilderness, designated a park in 1911, but don't let that moniker fool you. There are excellent day-hikes and great mountain-biking trails, but most of the park is reserved for delicious wilderness. Only well-experienced back country buffs should consider a multi-day backpack excursion. One of the attractions is Della Falls. At 440 metres high, it constitutes one of Canada's highest waterfalls.
The ruggedness of Strathcona embodies its appeal. Strathcona Park Lodge and Outdoor Education Centre is one of the few visitor facilities; it offers accommodation and wilderness skills training. The two areas for day use are Buttle Lake and Forbidden Plateau; they are easily reached, but you experience the joy of the landscape where mountain peaks tower, wild rivers race and tranquil lakes are tucked into absorbent greenery.
Buttle Lake is a favourite with anglers (terrific for Cutthroat). Forbidden Plateau is accessed through Mount Washington Alpine Resort - a snow-heaped ski and snowboard haven during winter. The rest of the year, hikers and mountain bikers savour its trails and astounding ocean-to-mountain views. There are more than 35 kilometres of single-track trails for the mountain-bike crowd. We found plenty of opportunities for workouts here with trails stretching above the tree line and dipping down into lush meadows. Rock climbers revere the park; Crest Creek Craggs boasts more than 100 climbing routes.
The Comox Valley is aptly named 'The Land of Plenty' by local aboriginals, thanks to its abundance of flora and fauna. We found it the land of plenty also for a plethora of vigorous and engaging outdoor activities.
Judi Lees is 2002 winner of Choice Hotels Award of Excellence for Best International (Travel) Article and Thailand Award for International Media. She has written for The Globe and Mail, The Toronto Star, many magazines and
www.traveltowellness.com .
Photo credits
Judi Lees
Vancouver Island Tourism
Strathcona Park, Fly-fishing on the Cowichan: Boomer Jerritt
Qualicum Beach Memorial Golf Course, Whale Watching, Boogie Boarding at Clayoquot: ChrisCheadle.com
April Point Resort & Spa
If You Go
Tourism Vancouver Island: www.vancouverisland.travel
Tourism British Columbia: www.hellobc.com
Tourism Campbell River and Region: www.campbellriver.travel
April Point Resort & Spa: http://www.aprilpoint.com/
BC Ferry Schedule: http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/northern/crqi-current.html
BC Parks: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks
Comox Valley: www.discovercomoxvalley.com
Cumberland: http://www.cumberlandbc.org/
Mount Washington Alpine Resort: http://www.mountwashington.ca/
Oak Bay Marine Group: www.obmg.com
Quadra Island, BC:
http://quadra-island.travel.bc.ca/
Strathcona Park Lodge and Outdoor Education Centre: http://www.strathcona.bc.ca/
What's happening, money, distance, time?
Media Guide: http://www.abyznewslinks.com/
Currency conversion: http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Distance calculator: http://www.indo.com/distance/
Time zone converter: http://www.timezoneconverter.com/
Transportation, visas, health, maps and temperature
Airlines (Wikipedia): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airlines
Embassies/Consulates (Embassy World): http://www.embassyworld.com/
Health precautions (WHO): http://www.who.int/ith/en/
Maps (Mapquest) U.S. & Canada: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/main.adp
Maps (Mapquest) World: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/main.adp?country=GB
Temperature (Temperature World): http://www.temperatureworld.com/
|
East coast & kayaking the inside passage
© By Elle Andra-Warner
It was one of those baby boomer 'I-can-do-anything' moments that placed us driving north on the Island Highway 19 on Vancouver Island's east coast. In a surge of daring adventurism, I had signed my husband, Glenn, and myself to a six-day wilderness sea-kayaking tour of the Inside Passage - even though neither of us had ever kayaked. We were headed for the northeast town of Port McNeill, the tour's jump off point.
It is a 502 km. drive from Victoria to the highway's end at Port Hardy (home to the island's most northern golf course). Our destination Port McNeill was a bit closer, at 463 km. We expected to simply zoom along the highway (four-lane at times) to Port McNeill - one of those "got to get there fast"' drives - but how could we? There were so many interesting places to pull-over and visit along the way.
Just 4 km. south of Nanaimo (the island's second largest city), we stopped at the Petroglyph Provincial Park to look at 10,000 year-old rock carvings. We later came back to visit some of the city's gems including Morrell Nature Sanctuary, the Harbourfront Walkway (4.4 km.), historical buildings, Pipers Lagoon, and we walked some of the city's 58 km. of mulched trails along with 28 km. of the paved variety.
Moving on north, drivers are presented two routes to Campbell River. The faster yet scenic Island Highway 19 runs through the rolling farmlands of the Comox Valley, its urban centre, Courtenay, (did you know dinosaur bones were found here and that's why it is designated as the start of the Great Canadian Fossil Trail?), and alongside Qualicum Bay to Campbell River. Or, there's the Oceanside Route Highway19A, the island's most popular tourist drive, which starts at the neighbouring seaside villages of Parksville and Qualicum Beach. (We took one route up island, the other on return.)
We'd driven 264 km. by the time we reached Campbell River, the "Salmon Capital of the World." With a sandwich in hand, we did a quick stroll on the Discovery Fishing Pier, enjoying the great view of nearby Quadra Island. The city of 31,000 is the gateway to Strathcona Provincial Park and the island's highest peak, Golden Hinde.
Hours later, we arrived at Port McNeill along the shore of Broughton Strait, home to the world's largest burl (weighing 30 tons, from a Sitka Spruce)....but we would have to see it and the town later after our sea-kayaking adventure.
Next morning at the launch site on Alder Bay, our paddling group of eight novice urban adventurers and three professional guides (from Sea Kayak Adventures) slid our bare feet into slithery wet-suit booties (reminded me of men's zippered goulashes) and sloshed through the low-tide mud to load the kayaks. Provisions for eleven people to be completely self-sufficient for a week were packed in six kayaks.
For the first two hours, we paddled south along the shoreline of Vancouver Island, across Beaver Cove, passing the quirky village-on-stilts of Telegraph Cove, and through the Wastell Islands. We built confidence in our kayaking but we all knew our padding skills would soon be tested crossing the big moving waters of the Johnstone Strait. The time arrived after a shore lunch. We lined up the kayaks, side by side, and fixed our gaze across the strait to the Sunset Beach campsite on Hanson Island, two nautical miles away (almost 4 km.).
"Stay together as a group, paddle steady and focus on our beach landing site," our leader instructed. "The guides will be out front and on both outer edges. Everyone ready? Let's go."
I chewed gum vigorously as we pulled away from the comforting shore. No one spoke as paddles rhythmically dipped through water that reached depths over 440 metres (1443 feet). An hour later, we were across. We hauled the kayaks to higher ground (to secure them against the night's tide) and then set up our tents in the old growth forest behind the beach. As the guides prepared a gourmet dinner (salmon, tortellini, broccoli, salad, peach cobbler), we sipped wine, nibbled hors d'oeuvres, and toasted each other as true adventurers.
In the next six days, we paddled 3-5 hours a day and covered over 44 nautical miles (amazingly, I never tired). Every day was an adventure in spectacular surroundings. We kayaked across Blackfish Sound (a main route of whales); paddled alongside ancient Aboriginal rock pictographs marking burial sites; watched bald eagles, herons, porpoises and deer; and, tented on secluded forested islands.
We paddled to the famous abandoned Kwakiutl village of Mamalilaculla on Village Island, wandered among the fallen old totem poles and chatted with the island's famous cultural keeper and storyteller Tom Sewid.
Another day, we hiked 2.5 kilometers through a rainforest to Eagle Eye Lookout on West Cracroft Island. Located on a high ridge, it overlooks the world-renowned Robson Bight Ecological Reserve on Johnstone Strait, where Orcas arrive each summer to rub on gravel beaches at the mouth of the Tsitika River.
Did we encounter any Orca whales? Yes, on the return crossing of Johnstone Strait. At about the strait's midpoint, one of the guides sighted three large dorsal fins from male Orcas advancing towards us. Quickly, we rafted the kayaks together (to appear as one large object on the whales' sonar) and positioned ourselves to face the oncoming whales. Another guide lowered a hydrophone in the water to hear their vocalizations and solar clicks. We waited. Only 30 metres in front of us, the whales surfaced and dove beside us in perfect synchrony before continuing down the strait. Awesome!
Our last night was spent tenting amid beached logs on shores of B.C. Forest Service's Blinkhorn Peninsula (their boardwalk, wooden privy is the best wilderness outhouse I've ever seen). We looked a bit rough as we sat around the evening campfire and mused about our great adventure. In six days, the guides had honed us into modern-day explorers, and our spirits soared at the accomplishment.
The next day, we walked around Port McNeill (including visiting the big burl on the waterfront) before heading south for a leisurely drive back down the east coast. By the time we arrived in Victoria, it seemed like we had been on two great vacation trips - one sea-kayaking and one wonderful journey, exploring Vancouver Island's diverse east coast.
Elle Andra-Warner is an author, journalist and photographer based in Thunder Bay, Ontario.
Photo credits:
Elle Andra-Warner
Tourism Vancouver Island:
Whale Watching, Clayoquot Sound & Inter-tidal Fauna: ChrisCheadle.com
Kayak Johnstone Strait (3): George Fischer Photography
If you go:
Tourism Vancouver Island: www.vancouverisland.travel
Tourism BC - Vancouver Island: www.hellobc.com/en-CA/RegionsCities/VancouverIsland.htm
Tourism BC - Nanaimo, Parksville, Campbell River, Comox Valley, Victoria:
www.hellobc.com/en-CA/CitiesTowns/VancouverIsland.htm
Telegraph Cove: www.telegraphcoveresort.com
www.stubbs-island.com
Tourism Campbell River & Region: www.campbellriver.travel
Comox Valley Tourism (Courtenay, Comox, Cumberland and Surrounding Communities):
www.discovercomoxvalley.com
Parksville and Qualicum Beach: Vancouver Island's Oceanside Region:
www.visitparksvillequalicumbeach.com
Port Hardy: www.PortHardy.Travel
Robson Bight:
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/eco_reserve/robsonb_er.html
Tourism Nanaimo: www.tourismnanaimo.com
|
|
You Meet The Nicest People
When You Travel
|
More informative articles organized by your favourite writers.
|
|
What's happening, money, distance, time?
Media Guide: http://www.abyznewslinks.com/
Currency conversion: http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Distance calculator: http://www.indo.com/distance/
Time zone converter: http://www.timezoneconverter.com/
Transportation, visas, health, maps and temperature
Airlines (Wikipedia): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airlines
Embassies/Consulates (Embassy World): http://www.embassyworld.com/
Health precautions (WHO): http://www.who.int/ith/en/
Google interactive map: http://maps.google.com/
Temperature (Temperature World): http://www.temperatureworld.com/
|
When travelling to Vancouver Island, you may wish to investigate the following
links:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
